It's Fly Lice You Plick

Friday, June 09, 2006

Phnom Penh: Walking Tour

Having been ripped off repeatedly on the currency exchange both in Poi Pet and Sihanoukeville (I had no other choice), I decided that the first thing I should do today is bypass the exchange booth and hit up an ATM. ATMs are still a rarity in Cambodia, only having been introduced in recent months (the latest edition of the Lonely Planet still advises travelers to bring US Dollars or traveler’s cheques in their absence – I brought Thai Baht which converts poorly, as I’ve found out).

Cambodia, much like Laos, uses two currencies in tandem; the local currency (Cambodian Riel), and US Dollars. Generally speaking, small shops and restaurants will quote prices in Riel. Supermarkets, guesthouses and upscale restaurants will more often than not quote in Dollars. Both currencies are accepted everywhere but a favorable rate is sometimes given if US Dollars are used (it’s the more stable of the two currencies).

Today’s walking tour of the city kicked off at Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh’s art deco inspired central market. Already well over my budget, I made my stay quick.

I eventually found my way to the nearby Sorya Shopping Center where I grabbed a quick lunch at the food court and escaped the mid day heat. As with ATMs, shopping malls are a recent introduction to the country and many Cambodians aren’t used to the amenities held inside. For example, escalators are more or less unheard of outside of Phnom Penh. I watched as a Cambodian man waited patiently at the top of an up escalator, hoping for it to change direction to let him down. He gave up and took the stairs (the down escalator was hidden behind a shop. Another man waited at the bottom, either wary of the moving conveyor belt or waiting for it to stop to let him on.

The escalators were apparently staffed when the mall first opened to instruct people on proper usage.

Produce market in P'sar O Russei:

Retired bicycles:

A tuk tuk durian stall - probably one of the most dangerous rides to take.

Romances with reptile people seem to play a recurring theme in Cambodia's movie industry:

Cambodia's Independance Monument:

I’ve been pleasantly surprised with Phnom Penh so far - the stories I’d read of its reputed lawlessness have been thankfully unfounded (though it’s still far from being a safe place).

Evening time was spent catching up on old times with the group I traveled with in Luang Prabang. Thien An and Caroline, the Swiss girls, spent their month working their way from North to South Vietnam before crossing into Cambodia today. Fellow Canuck Andrew stayed in Laos (which I regret not doing) and spent most of his time off the beaten track. We’ll be traveling together for the next couple of weeks.

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